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TASTE THE RAINBOW STATE continued from page 33 In addition, most Hawaiian regions are filled with elevation and microclimate differentia- tions. While there is still only lim- ited scientific understanding of how cultural and environmental factors translate into the cup, it is accepted that the environmental conditions will play a crucial role in shaping cup quality. In Kona, for example, farms are situated at a variety of elevations—the altitude difference between Farm A and Farm B can be as much as 2,500 feet, in fact. Not surpris- ingly, coffees coming from a vari- ety of different elevations taste significantly different. While most people tend to think of the Hawaii coffee industry just as a producer (albeit a very small one; Hawaii produces less than .04 percent of the world's cof- fee supply), the state also has a strong roasting and consuming culture. As I've mentioned, roasting abounds on some of the estate farms, but wholesale and for-the- café roasting also can be found on all the major islands—and not just the coffee-growing ones. Most roasters carry several Hawaii- grown coffees, although nearly all also import coffees from other origins to supplement their offerings. In the last year, café culture has reached a new plateau. Around the state, there are now several cafés offering single-serve brews and even one that offers them exclusively. Moreover, some cafés have eliminated foreign coffees from their menus and are cel- ebrating and serving the diversity of coffees found within Hawaii (for more on one such shop, see "Café Crossroads," p. 22). Barista SHADE-GROWN: Kona has hundreds of estate farms, in which the owners maintain control of the coffee through the roasting process. culture, too, has begun to match that found on the mainland. Jams, latte art competitions and evening cupping sessions litter the calendar. The quality of Hawaii-grown coffees has even caught the attention of many of Hawaii's fine-dining restaurants—sev- eral of them have coffee menus that feature only coffees grown within the state. The Hawaii coffee industry has faced challenges and pest pres- sures in its past and has survived them. At this point, the future of the industry seems promising. With the newfound excitement and support from the specialty coffee community, there is little reason to doubt that the Hawaii industry will continue to flourish and delight all who are willing to experience it. 34 Fresh Cup Magazine freshcup.com SHAWN STEIMAN