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TASTE THE RAINBOW STATE Continued from page 31 have been discovered have not been well celebrated or promoted. This is contrary to what has happened in Ka'u, the region to the southeast of Kona that has become a coffee super- star in the last few years. Like Kona, most of the coffees in Ka'u are of about average quality. However, some of the extraordinary coffees have been "discovered" by baristas and roasters who have spread the word and the product. Several coffees from Ka'u have made it to the top 10 of the Roasters Guild's Coffee of the Year, awarded at the annual SCAA Exhibition, and now the whole region has gained a stellar reputation throughout the specialty coffee industry. The success and fame of Ka'u, perhaps more than anything, has helped propel Hawaii coffee into the minds of quality-focused roasters and consumers. TOP PRODUCER: Coffee dries in Kona, which for the most of the 20th century was Hawaii's only coffee-growing region. However, Kona and Ka'u are just two of the 10 geographical regions that grow coffee in Hawaii. There's a reason you hear very little from the other eight: Many of them contain a relatively small number of farms, and in some cases those plantations have done very little to promote themselves. In addition, many of the farms produce so little coffee that they are able to sell it all as roasted product, earning more than they would by selling it green. Thus, specialty coffee roasters rarely have the opportunity to explore and share coffees from those farms. Still, as in Kona and Ka'u, there are gems to be found in these lesser known locales. REGION BY REGION Kona and Ka'u are on Hawaii Island (also known as the Big Island). Two other regions are on the Big Island: Puna and Hamakua. North of Ka'u, on the windward side of the island, is Puna, a sprawling region dotted with small farms. The region is loosely orga- nized by a small farm/mill/roaster/café that serves the needs of many of the farms. As the region matures, new farms have continuously started up, and farmers are planting a multitude of varieties. On the north end of the Big Island is Hamakua, arguably the least organized region in Hawaii. Farmers in Hamakua work independently and seem not to need or want to con- gregate to create a regional identity. Nonetheless, many farms are successful, and some even struggle to keep up with demand. The island of Maui also features multiple regions. Kaanapali is dominated by a relatively large, mechanically harvested farm, though some small farms there have recently begun 32 Fresh Cup Magazine freshcup.com SHAWN STEIMAN