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producing small lots. The Maui region with the most farms is Kula, though it could more appropriately be called Upcountry (the farms span the higher-elevation towns of Maui and encompass more than just the town of Kula). This area probably produces the greatest diversity of cup profiles of any Hawaii region due to the array of varieties grown and the nuances of each farm's methodology. The region of Kipahulu, near the famous town of Hana, is romantically remote and contains just a few farms. The island of Kauai has only three farms, and two of them are small family operations. In recent years, they've been fantastically popular, barely able to grow enough coffee to appease customers. The third farm, with 3,000 mechanically harvested acres, is by far the largest in the state. The islands of Molokai and Oahu each have just one farm that produces any appreciable amount of coffee. Both farms are mechanically harvested and are growing in favor among consumers. Some new farms have recently been planted on Oahu, but production is still a few years out. Despite there being so many areas and farms, many people seem to want to identify a distinct flavor profile for each region. When a region has one farm, it is possible to answer this question—the farm may have only a few varieties and one or two ways of processing coffees. Describing each is manageable. However, in regions with many estate farms, the idea of a single flavor profile simply cannot exist. This happens not just because farmers choose different varieties, cultural methods and processing methods, but because farmers don't follow a single "recipe" when it comes to growing, processing or roast- ing. This variation in action causes a variation in taste. TRIPLE PLAY: Kauai has three coffee farms; the largest has 3,000 acres and is mechanically harvested (top). continued on page 34 freshcup.com January 2012 33 SHAWN STEIMAN DONN SOARES