Fresh Cup Magazine, providing specialty coffee and tea professionals with unique insight into the trends, ideas, products and people that shape their world.
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T While LetÕs Talk Coffee typically focuses on the coffee supply chain rather than the end consumer, StrandÕs lectureÑtitled ÒKilling the ConversationÓÑwas an appropriate introduction to this yearÕs conference, as he essentially asked: How does specialty coffee connect an incredibly complex chain of players to the consumer? It was a fitting theme to launch more than 400 attendees into a series of courses centered around how to strengthen relationships in coffeeÑbetween agronomists and cooperatives, farmers and the commodities markets, or specialty coffee and a larger community committed to sustainability. Coffee is a complex industry; how do we build a narrative and tell a story that resonates with our customers without bogging them down with this complexity? As Strand drew the parallel with wine and discussed its labeling history, he pointed out that we have hundreds of years of wine production to call upon, and it wasnÕt until the 1970s that wine makers hit upon the formula of describing a wine by variety, vintner and production year. It was a long process that evolved over timeÑone in which consumers became educated about wine and the sensorial implications of these three details. Strand proclaimed that specialty coffee needs to educate customers in a way that allows for similar methods of description to become effective. Some might say this is a slippery slope, as coffee consumers are often looking for something that tastes good and resonates with their personal coffee rituals and memories, and not necessarily looking to be educated. Both sides of that argument were heard at the panel ÒFarm to Table: Connecting Consumers to Origin.Ó There is already a strong farm-totable movement afoot in restaurants, farmers markets and specialty grocery stores across the CONSUMER REPORT: Oliver Strand's presentation addressed how specialty coffee can connect the United States. Similarly, we have seen specialtycustomer to a complex supply chain. coffee roasters advance a connection to producStrand argued that information that doesnÕt directly lead ers through marketing that is rich with photography and storyto an expectation of a specific coffeeÕs taste isnÕt relevant. telling, promotion of direct-trade, ever-increasing cup quality, Certifications, elevation and roast date all convey information and diverse flavors, tastes and experiences within the actual cup that is important to certain consumers, but they do very little to of coffee. As part of that panel, Ted Satchura discussed how his specifically describe a coffeeÕs flavor, body and taste. company, Equator Coffee, provides consumers with a rich sensoLetÕs Talk Coffee is Sustainable Harvest Coffee ImportersÕ rial experience bolstered by effective marketing and storytelling. annual conference bringing together partners in the organi- In this way, coffee roasters and retailers have an opportunity to zationÕs global supply chain. Attendees at LetÕs Talk Coffee engage and educate consumers at their own pace, rather than forccome from throughout the world of coffee production and ing a curriculum and agenda. include farmers and mill operators, academics, NGOs, roastPrice Peterson, owner of Hacienda La Esmeralda in Panama, ers and baristas. The aim is building relationships, celebrating contributed a producerÕs perspective to the discussion of farmsuccesses, honestly assessing strengths and weaknesses, and to-table coffee. In addition to its now-famous connection to the strengthening transparency. Conversations happen through gesha variety, Hacienda La Esmeralda was an early adopter of the informal networking opportunities, structured one-on-one Òopen auctionÓ format. In this model, the producer sells specific meetings and during a lecture series involving some of the coffee lots through an online auction. The format flattens the brightest minds in coffee. supply chain, connecting roasters to producers immediately while B RYAN CL IFTON P HOTOGR AP HY he specialty-coffee industry has a tough time talking about coffee, Oliver Strand told the throng of attendees gathered at the 11th annual LetÕs Talk Coffee conference, which took place this October in Salinitas, El Salvador. Strand ran through the series of challenges coffee roasters and retailers face when describing coffee to customers, and asked what information is needed to convey the experience of a coffee to a reasonably well-educated consumer. Is it the growing region, the name of the farmer, the roast date, the elevation, or certifications like fair trade or organic? In wine, a reasonably well-informed consumer who is provided only the grape variety, winemaker and year of production has adequate information to predict, at least generally, the taste of a given bottle of wine. But how does a roaster accurately convey a sensorial expectation on a package of coffee? continued on page 42 freshcup.com | January 2014 41