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THE WHOLE LEAF by Sarah Scarborough Varieties are the spice of life N o one knows the exact time or place marking the origin of today's tea plant, Camellia sinensis. Legend has it that in 2737 B.C., the Chinese emperor Shen Nung discovered tea. This likely took place in the cloud forests of China's Yunnan province, located in the southwest of the country, for that is where all evidence suggests tea first sprouted. Since then, countless botanists, planters and tea masters have been mesmerized by this small, evergreen tree and have dedicated their work to its cultivation and the search for the perfect cup. Their work continues today as modern tea lovers follow the quest for increasingly healthy, sustainable and delicious teas. A SHORT HISTORY OF TEA PLANTS The earliest records of tea cultivation date back to China, circa 700 A.D., when plants were being propagated from wild seeds. Around 1200 A.D., imported Chinese seeds were being sown in Japan. In the early-to-mid-1800s, offspring of the original Chinese trees were being planted in the now-classic tea origins of India and Sri Lanka. This original variety of the tea plant, hailing from China, has come to be classified as Camellia sinensis var. chinensis. It is known for its small leaves, highly aromatic flavor, and ability to thrive at high altitudes and to produce quality leaf well into old age. Though you will generally find these plants in areas known for aromatic and flavorful green, white and oolong teas (for example, China, Japan and Taiwan), the tea grown in Darjeeling, India, is an iconic example of var. chinensis. It grows at elevations higher than 6,000 feet, is renowned for its intense flavor and has been thriving on steep hillsides in the Himalayan foothills for more than 150 years. In 1823—not long after var. chinensis was first planted in India—Scotsman Robert Bruce discovered a native variety of Camellia sinensis growing in North India's Brahmaputra River valley, the region now known as Assam. On perennially warm and humid riverbanks, the variety grew in size and developed broad leaves and a reputation for making a bold and full- GROWING LEAVES: Four different tea cultivars (top), and a tea nursery in India's bodied cup. This tea plant came to be called Darjeeling region. 56 Fresh Cup Magazine freshcup.com