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SHAPING THE TASTE continued from page 49 7HD WDVWLQJ FXSV by U.K. ceramicist Peter Ting GREEN TEA CUP TULIP CUP BLACK TEA CUP feeling was that the highly aromatic teas, such as oolong and Earl Grey, scored highest when drunk from the Tulip Cup. The narrow neck seems to trap the aroma so that when drinking, we enjoy the aroma both at the front of the nose and retro-nasally after taking some tea into our mouths. It was also interesting that most tasters taking part in the session found that a rich Assam and a milky chai were better when drunk from the tradi- tional Black Tea Cup. This suggests that the generous spread of tea over the tongue when delivered from that particular shape enhanced the taste and aroma. The Gaiwan-style bowl was found to be best for Japanese sencha, perhaps because that tea is brewed at a lower temperature, a fact that can make aroma perception more difficult. TAKING TEA'S TEMPERATURE If a tea is too hot when we sip, we know what happens—taste nuances are basically nonexistent. But heat turns some of the vol- atiles in the tea into vapors that we smell as the aroma travels into the nose from the back of the mouth. The higher the temperature, the more the volatiles evaporate. Hence, hotter tea (as long as it's not too hot for flavor distinction) can make tasting easier. And that opens up another element in picking the proper cup: It's better to taste tea from vessels that prevent the tea from cooling down too quickly. Fine porcelain and glass are always best because they conduct heat less quickly and so keep the tea liquor hotter for longer. As the tea cools, fewer volatiles are evaporated and the taste experience changes. continued on page 53 50 Tea Almanac 2013 3HUIHFW SDLUV Opinions run aplenty, but in general, here's the style of cup experts recommend for each of the major tea categories: -Green .............. a Chinese Gaiwan -Black ............... a standard tea cup -Oolong ............ a tulip-shaped vessel (similar to a bulbous wine glass)