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Though certifications and the U.S. government are aiding in the task of traceability, it's not surprising that dedicated tea compa- nies still base the bulk of their product integrity on relationships at the source. "We're confident in the supply chain because our operatives are there during the season," says Kaiser of Rishi Tea. "By our own view and by our certifications, we can trace the leaf through the supply chain. I think it's really up to the brand or the importer to do their due diligence and have good partnerships." Rishi Tea travels to Japanese tea markets during each first flush to procure reserve-grade Japanese teas. But there's another complication to the traceability equation in specialty tea: Many importers have "trade secrets"—tea sources they don't want to identify because they may lose their exclusive access to that leaf. How do you take consumers all the way to tea's origin if it's also important to your business—or the business of a key partner—to veil such knowledge? Ned Heagerty, co-owner of California-based Silk Road Teas, acknowledges that the busi- ness realties of tea trading cause some sightlines to get covered. "Among my fellow importers and wholesalers, there's a protection of source that inhibits to some extent the traceability," he says. "I think it's incumbent on the importer to have the knowledge behind the product, but we might use a little bit of vagary to protect ourselves in some cases." The issue of trust is a vital one in the traceability game. In an industry where some origins are shrouded in cultures of obfusca- tion and tea sources are well-kept secrets, many companies ask their customers to just believe. "Here's the thing about trust: There's no easy way to get it," says Hodge of Seven Cups. "People trust us because we do the same thing year after year after year, and people know that we're delivering what we say we're delivering. You have to do it over time and really do the work." WHAT THE FUTURE MAY HOLD Hodge feels that in China, the dynamics are shifting in a man- ner that will benefit those tea sourcers seeking traceability. continued on page 30 Fresh Cup Magazine 29 COURTESY OF RISHI TEA