Fresh Cup

OCT 2013

Fresh Cup Magazine, providing specialty coffee and tea professionals with unique insight into the trends, ideas, products and people that shape their world.

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SEEDS OF SPECIALTY continued from page 44 test plots scattered around the estate. In these high-speed-growth regions, quantity is always the focus. The long internodes, large leaves and strong tannic characteristics lend themselves more to CTC manufacture and blending. But with careful choice of cultivar and an artisanal approach, Alexander has more sophisticated flavor profiles in mind. While it is difficult to produce "specialty" tea in Malawi, it is not impossible. In a corner of Satemwa's large CTC factory, Alexander has started to install machinery needed for processing specialty tea and has developed some excellent white, oolong and whole-leaf black teas that showcase the specifics of the region's rich and unique terroir. Much of Alexander's cultivar development has been guided by the senior plant breeders at the Tea Research Foundation of Malawi in Mulanje. The foundation is the latest incarnation of a research body established in the 1890s for industry research and development. The modern facility boasts a mini-CTC tea factory 46 Fresh Cup Magazine freshcup.com designed and installed by U.K.-based Teacraft to produce small experimental batches of tea for testing and develop new strains and manufacturing techniques. LOOKING AHEAD The future of Malawi's well-established tea industry will likely remain focused on the production of solid CTC teas, but work is on its way to establish a specialty sector, though work in that realm will require a different perspective and approach. It must be treated as a completely new product, from the cultivar to the cup. Though such whole-leaf offerings could never hope to compete with CTC in quantity, they could be a perfect complementary crop for the quiet growing season of late June and July. And market potential is certainly growing, with the rapid increase in world interest for new teas of specific origin with distinct flavor profiles. The obstacles at this point are the need for more specific cultivar development and a deeper understanding of the new parameters of artisanal manufacturing. Once that is done, Malawi's tea industry will be to develop a collective palate that can identify and re-create successful finished leaf. We have seen examples from many developing tea-growing regions proving that an exotic story will help sell a bag of tea, but only a quality leaf will bring the clients back for that second bag. It will take the progressive spirit of pioneers such as the Kay family of Satemwa to be the driving force behind this new chapter of tea in Malawi.

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