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WHEN YIELD IS NO LONGER ENOUGH continued from page 44 coffee is purchased by bulk processors at the cherry stage, separation of small lots is generally not possible. This practice also makes consistency between sample and lot purchase a challenge, as the sample one receives is possibly different from the product that is shipped. It then becomes a frustrating exercise for buyers in consuming countries to find coffee that suits their specific quality (and transparency) requirements. The aforementioned quality-seekers are necessarily based in-country for now, having to personally check in multiple times per year to guarantee that their tiny supply of quality, non-catimor Arabica still exists. On trips to Cau Dat, I have been both excited and confounded by CAN ROBUSTA EQUATE the remaining cultivars available. TO QUALITY TOO? The typica and bourbon trees Most of my quality-seeking efforts have focused on exhibit good yield and adaptasingling out Vietnam's dwindling supply of coffee tion to local conditions. Some plants that fall within the Arabica species, but it's of the typica plants have good worth noting that in India and elsewhere, CQI and resistance to pests and disease, and others have mutated into other specialty organizations have recently aimed trees that produce very large to locate and promote high-scoring robusta coffee. fruit compared with that of their Could similar ventures unfold here? The diversity of neighbors in the same plot, leadclimates, altitudes, growers and attitudes could surely ing growers to preserve them. make such ventures possible. To keep my variables The bourbon trees I've come to a minimum, though, I have been solely focused on across, meanwhile, look like ones Arabica. So far, robusta in Vietnam has been a highI've seen elsewhere, albeit a bit volume, hasty-trader's game, but I'm sure I'll run into larger. Because growers haven't a passionate robusta producer one day—and would had regular access to markets be happy to collaborate. that appreciate cultivar differentiation, some remain skeptical when told that these varieties are fetching much higher prices REGIONS WITH globally. They've hung onto these PROMISE trees simply for their own enjoyMuch of Vietnam's coffee ment and curiosity. Those who production occurs at elevations aren't skeptical of price premibelow 900 meters above sea level ums for quality don't think their (roughly 2,950 feet), and these coffee can compete on the global low-lying lands are ideal for full-sun, high-density robusta planta- level, and most want to see more proof before taking on the added tions. Those regions with elevations above the 1,200-meter (3,900 risk of full commitment to specialty production. feet) mark are few, but this is where nearly all Arabica production occurs. Although Son La, in the north, has historically gotten the INFECTIOUS ENTHUSIASM attention of buyers focusing on quality Arabica, infrastructural challenges have made it difficult to consistently and sustainably Still, the Arabica producers I've talked to are definitely intercultivate specialty-level coffee there. ested in preserving these varieties and experimenting with lot However, major promise exists in the southern part of the separation and processing techniques. Information about processCentral Highlands region. The area around Dalat, capital of Lam ing either isn't widely available to producers here, or the informaDong province, boasts an elevation that averages 1,500 meters tion they do find is based only on opinion or anecdote. No one has (4,900 feet) or higher, and there is particularly high potential for presented a case strong enough to inspire a big shift in smallholder the farms on and around an area called the Lang Biang Plateau. production systems. In an effort to reduce producers' financial and The roads are generally reliable, and the weather is much more labor risk for my own experiments, I've offered to do the footwork temperate than in the north. Also, the proximity to the nearby of identifying and labeling trees as well as harvesting and processports of Nha Trang and Saigon (the name of a network of ports in ing the coffee in which I'm interested. The enthusiasm is infecHo Chi Minh City) make Lam Dong province attractive to export- tious, and I look forward to many seasons of learning together. ers, and a major port project underway in Phan Rang (only two Vietnam's specialty coffee has a bright future, provided players hours from Dalat) will help to further expedite shipping in the act now. Industry professionals recognize that the value-added future. Dalat's stable climate is also good for warehousing pro- approach is urgently needed to preserve and propagate better cessed coffee until time for export. quality. Careful and strategic work is needed in order to improve About 12 miles outside of Dalat, the small town of Cau Dat is the country's coffee quality reputation and marketability in the home to some of the only remaining typica and bourbon plots global market, and more importantly, to ensure the sustainability (though again, as growers replant, catimor is the seedling of of the industry itself. Obstacles and skepticism remain prevalent, choice). At an elevation around 1,600-plus meters (5,250 feet), but if a determined few can show that quality efforts can lead with a cool climate and dry harvest season, Cau Dat holds power- to better prices and better practices, a dynamic new strain of ful potential for the development of finer Arabicas. Vietnamese production will no doubt take hold. 46 COFFEE ALMANAC • June 2013