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INDIE CITY continued from page 34 C O U R T E SY M E L B O U R N E I N T E R N AT I O N A L C O F F E E E X P O and it's marked by higher-quality green move toward single-cup brewing, with coffee (on the sourcing side) and singleshops using methods like Hario V60 cup brew methods (in the café world). and Chemex. Australian professionals Green coffee-wise, before about five are quick to applaud that development. years ago, Australian roasters had to "A filter market is starting to open up in source through importers in other counAustralia," says Smith of Toby's Estate, tries—typically the United States or the "with a lot of customers drinking it black United Kingdom—and the result was and appreciating the nuances." often stale coffee. "The green was reasonably old, not fresh crop," says Hirte UNITED BY COFFEE of Proud Mary. "Eventually somebody had to man up and start going direct and Australia's two largest cities, bringing container loads from origin." Melbourne and Sydney, are fairly even Around 2008, importers started popping in population: Sydney has 4.6 million up bringing green coffee directly into residents, and Melbourne follows closely Australia, and Ford says there are now at around 4.2 million. That has helped about 30 sourcers of high-quality green spur a rivalry between the two cities coffee in the country. in many facets—specialty coffee among Fresher green coffee has resulted in them. "Australians have always said, shops showcasing the better beans in 'Melbourne's the only place in Australia new ways. While espresso drinks still you can get coffee,'" says Smith of Toby's reign, it's now common for Australian Estate, who grew up in Sydney and still BROTHER BADA BUDAN is run by Seven Seeds, shops to offer a couple of single-ori- on of Melbourne's leading roasters. lives there. "Melbourne lost it a bit when gin espresso options in addition to specialty coffee came along, but they their espresso blends. "Basically there are a lot of grinders in realized they'd lagged behind and came screaming back with Australia," Hirte says. Better green coffee has also spurred a 20 new specialty coffee roasters. They surpassed Sydney by a 36 Fresh Cup Magazine freshcup.com