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major tea origins, veteran trekkers say, and Beckwith notes that the language barrier is significant, especially in rural areas. However, it's possible to arrange visits through local chambers of commerce and to make contacts through Japan's tea conventions, and Japan is generally considered a manageable nation in which to travel. Visitors are aided by high-speed trains as well as worldclass taxi, bus and subway systems. Beckwith advocates visiting Shizuoka and says that many people go to the southern tea-producing island of Kyushu. For most businesses, Beckwith says, visiting Uji isn't worth it: "Uji is such a small region with such expensive teas, and its name isn't recognized enough in the U.S. yet." Taiwan. Despite his troubles finding great tea at a low price, Lorien says he was able to experience far more than he thought he would in Taiwan, thanks to the openness of tea people there. Other travelers have experienced the same. "Taiwan is a pleasure [to visit]," says Beckwith. "It's easy to get around. Everything's clean. There's the language issue, but if you have someone to translate for you, it's easy." Tai of Floating Leaves recommends visiting Pinglin because of its proximity to Taipei and checking out Alishan because it is famed for its high-mountain oolong. Lorien suggests spending at least one day going to tea farms at elevation because it "is striking and gorgeous and grand and breathtaking." Beyond that, he recommends visitors follow their passions: "If you're interested in ceramics, go to Yingge. If you're into lower-elevation teas, go to Nantou. Experience the vibrancy and craziness of Taipei. For a tiny island, Taiwan is a huge country." China. For many, China is the pinnacle of sourcing, a behemoth wonderland of tea. But be warned— visiting China is not for everyone. MORE TIPS FROM THE PROS • Be a people person. Interpersonal skills are more important now than they ever were. "Be with the people. Be vulnerable. Try to learn a few words in their language," says Jeffrey Lorien of Zhi Tea. • Bring gifts. "People will be giving you things," notes Sebastian Beckwith of In Pursuit of Tea, "and you'll look like an idiot if you can't reciprocate." • Cup teas before you arrive. "Take extensive notes at home about the qualities and general classifications you like," Lorien says. "It will help you when you're talking about tea, and it will help you ask better questions." • Know what you're talking about. "You have to do homework, and it's more than reading a Wikipedia entry," says Beckwith. "People can tell when you know a little bit and they appreciate it." • Remember, it's a trip. "Bring bug spray and be prepared for inclement weather," says Lorien. "By all means explore the local cuisine, but be careful about water and about food that was hot and has cooled down. Eat hot food hot and cold food cold." • Above all, expect the unexpected. "Nothing is set in stone," says Roy Fong, co-owner of San Francisco's Imperial Tea Court. "You can't say, 'I'm going to do one and two and get three.'" Conditions are not always exactly comfortable and the risk of getting a bum deal may be higher than in other countries. Fong, however, notes that conditions in China have improved greatly over the last decade or so. "They have hotels and phones [in most major tea areas] now," he says. Beckwith advises bringing a headlamp to deal with power outages and some snacks to avoid eating "sketchy" foods when in remote areas. He adds, "Go with an attitude of wanting to learn. You can't bitch about the bed and this and that. Just do it." Veteran tea travelers say that the risk of ending up in a business scam is still prevalent in China. There are many horror stories of people buying one tea (usually at a high price due to quality or quantity) only to end up receiving another of much lower quality. Also, fake versions of pu-erhs, Dragonwells and other renowned tea types dot the market. Fong and Beckwith say they were able to avoid such issues by building strong relationships with their suppliers, but Fong says, "To embrace [suppliers] and be their friend is not enough." Knowing the products is essential, and it's imperative to call someone out if they try to dupe you. "If you don't," he says, "they'll just continue," and if they don't make amends, then "they're not people you want to continue to deal with." Fong also says many of the instances of buyers being "cheated" are rooted in cultural differences that are poorly understood by most Westerners. To avoid being defrauded, he recommends treating suppliers with ample respect, particularly when it comes to pricing and quantities. Establish the fact you know what you're doing and won't accept foul play. It's also helpful to buy enough to make your business vital to the supplier and to pay a fair market price. freshcup.com February 2013 47